HAGIA SOPHIA– SECRETS AND THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

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Some people call Hagia Sophia the “8th wonder of the world” Considering the international importance of Hagia Sophia and how far ahead of its time it is, this is not an exaggeration at all. Indeed, Hagia Sophia is one of the most valuable works of art in the world in terms of art and architecture. When the religious significance is added to this, one of the most valuable cultural assets of the world emerges. As a result, it is among the most visited tourist destinations in the world.

On the other hand, many of us know only superficially about Hagia Sophia, which contains terrific details and mysteries. The average of people who’s knowledge of it’s secrets are limited to the fact that this Byzantine artifact was the largest building in the world at the time, was converted into a mosque after the conquest of Istanbul, then converted into a museum, and is now a mosque again.

We might realize how little we actually know when we had a wonderful tour in Hagia Sophia with one of Turkey’s best and most equipped guides, so we will appreciate Hagia Sophia more when we get to know its mysteries. This article is for all history buffs who haven’t had the chance to visit it yet. We share with you the valuable information we learned during the tour so that you can take a tour of Hagia Sophia by yourself.

Information for Visiting Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Musa Ortaç / Pexels

How Much Time Should You Spend on Visiting Hagia Sophia?

It depends on how detailed you want to explore. As a minimum of time half an hour might be just alright, but if you want to tour properly, consider allocating 2+ hours.

“How can a historic church take that long?” in order to truly understand, you need to examine the mosaics and tiles you will come across, learn the stories of their construction, and understand the architectural features of the period in which the building was built, and visit in detail.

What Does Hagia Sophia Mean?

Hagia Sophia literally means holy wisdom, divine wisdom.

The word “Hagia” meaning “Aya” is sacred, and the word “Sophia” meaning “Sofia” comes from the Ancient Greek word “sophos” meaning wisdom. Sacred wisdom is also considered one of the three attributes of God in Orthodoxy. 

History of Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Wikipedia

Hagia Sophia was built 3 times, not once, in the same place until it took its current form. After it was built for the last time, it did not leave the distinction of being the largest cathedral in the world to anyone for 1000 years. Having served as the capital of both the Roman and Ottoman Empires, Istanbul became the center of religious life.

While the former two Hagia Sophias before the last Hagia Sophia were destroyed by fires in the riots of the people, the dome of today’s Hagia Sophia was destroyed by an earthquake and was rebuilt. Now we will briefly talk about the history of 3 Hagia Sophia:

First Hagia Sophia

The construction of the first church is started by Constantine the Great (I. Constantine AD 272 AD 337), who made Istanbul the capital of the Roman Empire, liberated Christianity with the Edict of Milan, and initiated the realization of the Council of Nicaea, in which the binding rules of Christianity were set. It was completed and opened for worship by his son Konstantios in 360 AD. The first church is called Megalo Ecclesia, which means Great Church in Greek, but it was destroyed in the popular uprising in 404 AD and not much remains.

Second Hagia Sophia

Emperor II. The second church, which was built by Theodosius (408-450 AD) in 415, was destroyed during the great popular uprising that broke out in 532 AD during the reign of Emperor Justinian (527-565 AD) and went down in history as the Nika Revolt.

Photo Source: Wikipedia

The columns in the courtyard and garden remained from the 2nd church. In addition, during the excavations carried out in 1935, fragments of frieze decorated with reliefs of sheep symbolizing the 12 apostles and the stairs of the monumental entrance of the second church were unearthed, approximately two meters below the floor of the present church. You can examine all of these by spending some time in the garden of Hagia Sophia before entering the building.

Today’s Hagia Sophia: Third Hagia Sophia

It is the oldest and fastest-built cathedral in the world. The
third Hagia Sophia, which has survived to the present day, was built by Emperor Justinian (527-565 AD), physicist Isidoros of Miletus, and mathematician Antemios from Trales, now Aydın. The construction started on February 23, 532, completed in 5 years, and opened for worship on December 26, 537. Antemios died in the second year of construction, but Isidoros completed the building. 10,000 workers are employed with 1000 journeymen and masters in its construction. Hagia Sophia, which has the distinction of being the oldest cathedral in the world, also has the title of the fastest built cathedral in the world.

Looting in a crusade
During the Fourth Crusade, the Crusaders under the command of Enrico Dandolo, 41st Associate Professor of the Republic of Venice, capture Istanbul and plunder Hagia Sophia. During this period, Hagia Sophia suffers a great destruction.

After the conquest of Istanbul
Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque with the conquest of Istanbul in 1453 and Islamic elements were added to the structure. The first minaret in Hagia Sophia was built during the reign of Mehmet the Conqueror. This wooden minaret does not survive today. Then Sultan II. Another minaret was added to the structure during the Bayezid period.

Hagia Sophia and its dome II. It was strengthened with buttresses and arches by Mimar Sinan during the reign of Selim I (1566-1574), and the building was built with a minaret, sultan’s lodge and II. He adds Selim’s tomb. By the 1600s, II. Murat and III. Mehmed’s tombs are also added to the structure.

During the Ottoman period, many more additions were made to the building, such as a marble pulpit, a gallery leading to the sultan’s mahfil, a muezzin’s chamber, and a sermon platform. III. Murad places two jars made of “gooseberry” dating from the Hellenistic period, excavated from the Ancient City of Pergamon, in the main hall of Hagia Sophia. Mahmud I, on the other hand, adds a library, a madrasah, an almshouse and a fountain in its garden. Thus, Hagia Sophia turns into a social complex.

During the reign of Abdülmecit, Hagia Sophia undergoes one of the most famous restorations of the Ottoman period. Between 1847 and 1849, the Italian-born Fossati brothers strengthen the dome, vaults and columns of the structure and rework the interior and exterior decoration of the structure. They clean the mosaics on the upper floor and plaster the badly damaged ones. They also paint the mosaic motifs below on this plaster. Giant round tables, the work of Kazasker Mustafa Izzed Efendi (1801-1877), in which important names are written in calligraphy, are renewed and hung on columns.

Might interest you: The Topkapi Palace tour of the Sultan’s harem

Hagia Sophia became a museum and later a mosque
Hagia Sophia became a museum on February 1, 1935, and in 1985 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List within the framework of the “Archaeological Park” that includes Hagia Sophia, Hippodrome, Hagia Irene, Little Hagia Sophia Mosque and Topkapi Palace. it is entering. Finally, on July 24, 2020, it was turned back to the “Mosque” status. The floor was covered with a carpet, and the mosaics in the place of prayer were covered with an electronic rail system curtain that opened and closed in 1 minute. These curtains come into play during prayer times and when the prayer is over, the mosaics are opened again. Among the mosaics and frescoes that are covered during prayer are the Absis Mosaic (Theotokos Mosaic), the Gabriel mosaic right next to it, and the Seraphim Angels frescoes on the pendants.

The Greatest Building of its Period

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Berk Özdemir / Pexels

As we said, Hagia Sophia is both the world’s oldest cathedral and the world’s fastest built cathedral. In addition, it is a mega-structure that preserved the title of being the largest cathedral in the world for 1000 years from the time it was built, until the completion of the Cathedral of Seville in Spain (1520). Despite all the time that has passed, still in terms of surface area, St. Peter (1506-1626), St. Paul (1675-1711) and Seville Cathedral, it still remains the 4th largest cathedral in the world today.

Architectural Features of Hagia Sophia

In the video above, the architecture of the building is explained very clearly with all the details. You might want to review some architectural terms before watching:

Narthex: The narthex, which is common in early Christian and Byzantine basilicas and churches, is the entrance section generally located on the west side of the building.
Apse: A semicircular or polygonal, rarely rectangular structure, covering the altar chamber of churches. It represents the cave where Jesus was born.
Nave: Each of the longitudinal areas in churches and basilicas, separated from each other by columns or pillars. The main body of the church.
Pendentive: An inverted triangle or orange slice shaped structure that is placed on four corners to build a dome over a square or rectangular shaped area.
Buttress: A bracing support used to keep the structure in balance and to prevent it from collapsing or slipping.
Fresco: A wall painting made with root paint obtained by crushing plant roots while the plaster layer is wet. Paints are applied while the plaster is wet. Plaster and paint dry together.
Mosaic: A piece of art produced by adorning a surface by bringing together small particles of different colors from various materials such as stone, glass, brick, metal or seashell.

For the First Time in the History of Architecture: Basilica Plan and Central Dome Together

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Unsplash

With the design that inspired Mimar Sinan,
Hagia Sophia, for the first time in the history of world architecture, a central dome and half domes to support the main dome are built on the square created in the middle of a rectangular plan. Later, this plan continues to be used in mosques built by Mimar Sinan during the Ottoman period. In other words, the most important feature in the architecture of Hagia Sophia is the combination of the traditional basilical floor plan with apse, narthex and nave and the central dome plan with pendentives.

But the main dome collapses 20 years after its construction. Since the physicist Isidoros, who was the first architect of the building, passed away during the intervening period, Emperor Justinian commissioned the young Isidoros, Isidore’s nephew, to rebuild the dome. Nephew Isidoros carries out the repair by using tiles that are lighter than those of the old dome, raising the dome and canceling the additional cylindrical structure that caused it to collapse.

Hagia Sophia has an apse, 3 naves, and 2 narthexes, inner and outer. The height of the dome of the building is 55.6 meters. The dome is not in the form of a full circle, but has an elliptical form.

For the First Time in Architectural History: The Use of Pendentives

Hagia Sophia is the first building in history where pendentives were applied. If the dome sits at the top of each arch and there is no extra support, it can crack and collapse. Here, curved corners like this inverted orange slice called pendentive form a circular base for the dome on a rectangular ground. These pendants give the weight of the dome to the main carrier piers and direct it to the floor.

Struts Added Centuries Later

After the construction of Hagia Sophia is seen to be bent outwards centuries later, outward protrusions are added to the main support piers. These protrusions are designed to divert the thrust of the piers towards the ground, just like the support struts in Gothic architecture.

Hagia Sophia has a total of 24 support piers, 7 of which are in the east, 5 in the west, 4 in the north, 4 in the south and 4 in the gravity tower. Some of the buttresses were built during the Eastern Roman period, and some were built during the Ottoman period.

Minarets Added with Islam invasion

Adding a minaret to Hagia Sophia happens when Istanbul is converted into a mosque after the conquest of 1453. In fact, after it was converted into a mosque, another wooden minaret was built by Fatih Sultan Mehmet over one of the half domes. But this minaret has not survived to the present day. Currently, Hagia Sophia has a total of 4 minarets with a height of 60 meters. The brick minaret, located in the southeast, is stylistically dated to the period of Fatih Sultan Mehmet or Beyazıt II. It is thought that the minaret on the façade facing the entrance door of Topkapı Palace may have been built by Mimar Sinan during the reign of Selim II, due to its similarity to the minaret of Selimiye Mosque in Edirne. It is known that the twin minarets in the south-west and north-west directions were built by Mimar Sinan during the reign of Sultan Murat III.

Outer Narthex

Photo Source: Wikipedia

The narthex, typical entrance corridors seen in early Christian and Eastern Roman basilicas and churches. Hagia Sophia also has two narthexes, one inside and one outside. When you enter the outer narthex, you will see the mosaic monogram of Sultan Abdülmecid. This is the section that we will say you must see here. Because this tughra was commissioned by Italian master Lanzoni from the original mosaic grains poured from the walls of Hagia Sophia during the repairs made by the Fossati brothers in Hagia Sophia in 1847-1849.

Another item you can pay attention to is the bowl with snakes. This large marble bowl with two snake motifs was brought here from the spa of the famous hospital complex Asklepion in the Ancient City of Pergamon. As you know, the snake is the symbol of medicine. The story of this symbol also goes back to the Asklepion in the Ancient City of Pergamon. Patients who were about to die in Asklepion were not accepted. One day, such a hopeless case came to the hospital and was turned away from the door. While the patient was leaving sadly, he saw two snakes drinking milk from a bowl. He drank the milk, which he thought was poisonous, saying that if I was going to die at least, I would die immediately and recovered. After that, these two snakes became the symbols of medicine and pharmacy.

In addition, in the outer narthex, the sarcophagus of Empress Iren, which was removed from the Pantakrator Church in Zeyrek, and the religious decisions taken by the spiritual assembly gathered in Hagia Sophia in 1166, the originals were dated to Sultan II. There is also a plaster copy of the Synod Decisions, which were abolished by Selim.

Doors of Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Selim Çetin / Pexels

Passage Doors from the Outer Narthex to the Inner Narthex

5 doors greet you on the transition from the outer narthex to the inner narthex on the western façade of Hagia Sophia. The three large bronze-clad oak doors in the middle, and to the right and left of it, are 1500 years old. The other two doors could not preserve their originality compared to the first three. In fact, when Hagia Sophia was first built, the number of doors was 7. Because the number 7 is a lucky number in Rome. But in the later repairs, 4 doors were canceled.

Hagia Sophia
Source: Mohamed Khair/ Pexels

Passage Doors from the Inner Narthex to the Main Space

Nine doors greet you at the entrance to the inner narthex and the main space. In fact, before the looting during the 4th Crusade (1204-1261), these doors were decorated with gold and silver ornaments and were very magnificent. The door in the middle of the nine doors is known as the Emperor’s door. Emperors were entering Hagia Sophia from there.

Emperor’s Gate (Imperial Gate)

The biggest gate in Hagia Sophia is the Emperor’s Gate. The emperors used to enter the main place through this door. There are depressions in the marbles on the right and left sides of the door. These were formed by the standing guards standing right and left at the door. Above the gate is the 9th century Emperor’s Gate Mosaic. We talked about it in more detail below.

In Roman and Ottoman sources, this door, Hz. It is said to be made from the woods of Noah’s ark. Even in Roman and Ottoman times, sailors used to visit this gate before leaving Istanbul.

Orea Porta (Vestibule Gate) and Warriors’ Pass

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Musa Ortaç / Pexels

Orea Porta or Vestibule Gate, which means Beautiful Gate, is the gate that provides side entrance to the building. It is the oldest architectural piece found in Hagia Sophia since it belongs to the 2nd century BC. The bronze door was removed from an ancient pagan temple in Tarsus in 838 AD, during the reign of Emperor Theophilus (829-842) and installed here. When the door does not fit in Hagia Sophia, the floor is dug and the door is attached like that.

In the Eastern Roman period, emperors and empresses would enter the inner narthex from Orea Porta and pass through the emperor’s gate to the main space. Before going into the inner narthex, the emperor would leave his sword and crown in the corridor called Warriors Pass in front of the door. His guards awaited him in this corridor. When you enter through the Beautiful Gate, at the end of the corridor, you come across the 8th century Offering Mosaic. We talked about it in detail below.

Pillars, Capitals and Marbles of Hagia Sophia

Photo Source: Wikipedia

Hagia Sophia has a total of 107 columns, 40 in the main area and 67 in the other sections. The 16 columns in the main section were brought from the Temple of Artemis in the Ancient City of Ephesus, the 8 red columns in the four corners were brought from Heliopolis in Egypt, and the other columns were brought from the Baalbek Temple in Lebanon and other parts of the empire.

There are monograms of Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora on some of the column capitals of Hagia Sophia, which are embroidered with lace, are in impost-capital style and are unique to Hagia Sophia . Lead was used at the base of the columns and at the junction with the ceiling. Because lead is a material that allows the column to flex to a certain extent.

In the interior of Hagia Sophia, the walls and floor are completely covered with marble. The most important feature of the marbles in Hagia Sophia is that they were all formed by cutting large marble blocks in half and were laid symmetrically. If you look carefully at the walls, you may notice that the texture of the marble matches the marble on one side. Just like the Rorschach Test.

Yellow marbles are brought from Syria, white marbles are brought from Marmara Island and green marbles are brought from Greece. The floor is completely paved with marble brought from Marmara Island.

Mosaics of Hagia Sophia

One of the most important things you will see in Hagia Sophia is undoubtedly the mosaics. You can definitely examine these mosaics, which will appear in many different parts of the church, in detail. As a general information, in icons and frescoes, Hz. A halo and cross on the head of Jesus, Hz. Mary is depicted with a halo on her head.

Presentation Mosaic

Photo Source: Wikipedia

The mosaic that you encounter at the end of the corridor when you enter through the Beautiful Gate is the Serving Mosaic, the symbol mosaic of Hagia Sophia, dating from the 8th century. This mosaic is unearthed by Fossati during the repairs made in 1849. In the mosaics, Hz. Mary, the child Jesus in her arms, the founder of the city, Constantine I, holding a model of Istanbul in her left hand, and the Prophet in her right hand. Mary and St. There is Emperor Justinian holding a model of Hagia Sophia to be presented to Jesus.

Note: There is a large mirror above the Beautiful Gate so that visitors do not miss the Offering Mosaic when leaving Hagia Sophia.

Absis Mosaic (Theotokos Mosaic)

Photo Source: pixabay.com

The 5-meter abscissa mosaic is located in the semi-dome of the abscissa. In the mosaic, Hz. Meryem sits on a cushioned throne decorated with precious stones. He also has the child Jesus in his arms. This mosaic, made in 867 AD, has the feature of being the first figurative depiction made on Hagia Sophia after the period of Iconoclasm (726-847 AD). This mosaic and the mosaic of Gabriel right next to it are closed with an electronic curtain during prayer.

Deisis Mosaic

Photo Source: Wikipedia

In the “Deisis” or “Prayer” mosaic dated 1262, John the Baptist is on the right, and Hz. Mary is in the middle of Hz. There is Jesus. In the Deisis mosaic, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist are sent to the Prophet for the forgiveness of humanity. He is praying to Jesus. The most striking aspect of this mosaic is that Hz. The difference in facial expression on the right and left halves of Jesus’ face. But this difference is not caused by any error. When you look at the mosaic from a little further, you realize that Jesus’ eyes are looking at you.

komnenos mosaic

Photo Source: www.needpix.com

On the mosaic panel dating to the 12th century, Emperor II. Ionnes Kommenos, his wife Iren of Hungarian origin, and their son Alexios II. In the middle of the composition, the Prophet with the child Jesus in his arms. Mary is depicted. Since Irene is of Hungarian descent, she is shown as a Central European type with braids, red hair, colored eyes, white skin and rosy cheeks. On the pier next to the panel is Prince Alexios II, who died of illness at a young age. The prince is depicted with a rather pale complexion as he died of illness. This mosaic is being built in the name of the family who donated financially to Hagia Sophia.

Zoe Mosaic

Photo Source: Wikipedia

In this mosaic panel dated to the 11th century, Emperor IX. There is a depiction of Constantine (1042-1055) and Empress Zoi (Zoe). In the middle of the emperor and empress, Hz. There is Jesus. Hz. On either side of Jesus’ head are the monograms IC and XC with the letters JESUS ​​KHRISTOS. This mosaic panel symbolizes the donation of the emperor family to Hagia Sophia.

Empress Zoi, who married a total of 3 times in order to stay on the throne, had her husband’s face renewed in the mosaic each time. Obsessed with beauty and youth, Zoi had her own mosaic renewed 3 times and asked the masters to make her portrait look younger.

Emperor’s Gate Mosaic

Photo Source: Wikipedia

This 9th-century mosaic is located on the upper wall of the Emperor’s Gate and is called the Emperor’s Gate Mosaic. In the mosaic, in the middle, Hz. Jesus is seen on the right coin, Gabriel is on the left coin, and Mary is on the left coin. The bearded person seen in the lower left is the Byzantine emperor VI. Leon. In Orthodoxy, marriages are allowed up to three times, but Emperor VI. Leon marries four times and is excommunicated from religion in order to have a son. Therefore, in the mosaic, Hz. He is depicted prostrating and apologizing to Jesus.

Patriarch Mosaics in Tympanon

Inside the half-arched niches in the north of the building, 9th-10th. There are patriarch mosaics dating back to the 16th century. Only 3 patriarch mosaics have survived to the present day in good condition. These are the patriarch of Istanbul Ignatius in the first niche, the patriarch of Istanbul St. Yuannes Chrysostomos in the fourth niche, and the patriarch of Antakya St. Ignatus Theoforos in the sixth niche.

Emperor Alexander Mosaic

The mosaic of Emperor Alexandros (AD 912-913), dating to the 10th century, remains in a hidden corner. Known to have a faint personality in Roman history, Alexander VI. It was shared by Leon to the sultanate.

What to See in the Main Venue

Angels in Pendants

Photo Source: www.needpix.com

The depictions of 4 angels are engraved on the pendants. These angels are the Seraphim Angels, consisting of a head and six wings, believed to guard the throne of God in heaven. The angels in the east were made of mosaics, and the two angels in the west were corrupted during the Eastern Roman period and renovated as frescoes. The faces of these angels were covered with a metal cap during the Ottoman Period. During the mosaic repairs on the dome in 2009, the cover covering the face of the angel in the north east was removed. These angels are among the frescoes covered during prayer.

Cubes of Hagia Sophia

You will see 2 cubes in the side naves of Hagia Sophia. These are III. Cubes from the Hellenistic period in the ancient city of Bergamon, brought to Hagia Sophia during the reign of Murad II. The cubes, which are made of mono block marble called gooseberry, are huge cubes that can hold an average of 1250 liters of liquid. From these jars, sherbet was distributed to the public at oil lamps and Eid prayers. At other times, they were used as a fountain with water in it.

In fact, there were three of these jars until Mahmud II, and the third and the most decorated one was in the Küplü Hamam in Bergamon. II. Mahmud, at the request of the King of France, presents the cube in the Küplü Hamam to him. The third and most ornate cube can now be seen in the Louvre Museum in Paris.

Omphalion

Photo Source: fusions of horizon – Flickr

Omphalion means “the center of the world, the navel”. This spot is the place where emperors were ceremonially crowned during the Eastern Roman period. The big circle in the middle is Hz. The 12 circles around it represent Jesus and the 12 apostles. At the coronation, the emperor stands in the middle, and the clergy are lined up in circles around him. Unfortunately, we can’t see the Omphalion at the moment because after the building was converted into a mosque, this part was also covered with carpet and Omphalion was left under the carpet. Of course, by taking the necessary protective measures.

Khidr Authority

There are some authorities in Istanbul, where it is believed that those who are in trouble and distress can meet with Hızır. These are Hagia Sophia, Atik Ali Pasha Mosque in Çemberlitaş, Atik Valide Mosque in Üsküdar. There is a belief that if the morning prayer is performed 40 times at these points, Khidr will appear. The Khidr maqam in Hagia Sophia, on the other hand, is the X point engraved on the marble right under the dome, which is called the middle place of Hagia Sophia.

Wishing Column (Crying Column)

Photo Source: Flickr – Brian Jeffrey Beggerly

The wish column will appear in front of you when you move in the northwest direction. As the name suggests, this is a pillar that visitors visit today to make a wish. According to the legend, the column has a sacred feature that heals diseases. The inside of the hollow in the middle of the column is slightly wet, when you put your finger in and out of the hole, you rub it on the aching place and the pain goes away, and that wetness is Mary the virgin’s tears. Free to try!

Baptism Boat

Photo Source: Wikipedia

The baptistery is the room on your left as you exit the courtyard from Hagia Sophia. When Hagia Sophia is converted into a mosque, this room is used as an oil shop where oil lamps are stored. The baptistery’s baptistery, which was converted into a tomb after the death of Sultan Mustafa I in 1639, was discovered during an excavation in the garden of Hagia Sophia in 1943 and was put back in its original place.

What to See in the Upper Galleries

A ramp leads to the upper floor from the main space. In the Right Gallery, there are the empress’s lodge, the Deisis Mosaic, the marble door, the Viking inscription, the tombstone of Henricus Dandolo on the ground, the tilted columns, the Zoi Mosaic and the komnenos Mosaic. In the Left Gallery, there is the Emperor Alexandros Mosaic and the landing ramp.

Empress Lodge

The empresses were watching the coronation ceremonies from the empress box in the south nave of the upper floor. Two small marble-headed columns and a circular green porphyry stone showing the place where the empress’s throne will be placed have survived from the empress’s lodge.

Marble Door

Photo Source: Wikipedia

The public was not allowed to pass through the marble door on the upper floor. The section where the Patriarchate officials held their meetings was passed through this door. It is said that one side of the door represents heaven and the other side represents hell.

Viking Script

Photo Source: Wikipedia

In the Byzantine period, the Vikings used the rivers to come to the Black Sea and from there to Istanbul. They served as mercenaries to the emperors. In the south gallery on the upper floor, on the marble handrail, there is the name of a soldier named “Halvdan” engraved in Runi alphabet. Do not miss this detail when you go. It is already specially covered with a glass plate. You can easily find the location.

Tomb of Henricus Dandolo

Photo Source: Wikipedia

Those who read Dan Brown’s novel Hell will remember, Henricus Dandolo, the Doge of Venice, who led the 4th Crusade (1204-1261) and is said to be blind, dies in Istanbul in 1205 at the age of 70 and is buried in Hagia Sophia. But later, when Istanbul was liberated from the Latins, his tomb in Hagia Sophia was opened by the Byzantines in 1261 and Dandolo’s bones were thrown into the sea. The symbolic tombstone for Henricus Dandolo is located in the upper gallery of Hagia Sophia.

Tilted Columns

You will notice that some of the columns in the upper floor gallery are tilted like the Leaning Tower of Pisa. These are the columns that are bent due to the pressure created by the dome.

Sections Added After the Mosque

Mihrab and Minbar

Mohamed Khair/ Pexels

The pulpit, which is a structure with stairs on which the sermon is read, was built by Sultan III. It was built during the reign of Murad. One of the best examples of 16th century marble workmanship.

The mihrab, the hollow and recessed place in the middle of the wall in the direction of the qibla, where the congregation stands in front of the prayer, also dates from the 19th century. There are large oil lamps brought from a church in Hungary during the Kanuni’s period, on both sides of the very ostentatious altar, which was made using abundant gilding.

In addition, the calligraphy works of the Ottoman sultans hang on the right wall of the mihrab, and the works of the important calligrapher masters of the period are hanging on the wall on the left.

Sultan’s Assembly

Special places created for the worship of sultans are called sultan’s mahfili. There is no information about the first sultan’s chamber of Hagia Sophia. The sultan’s mahfili, which has survived to the present day, was added by the Fossati brothers during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecit.

Large Line Boards

Hagia Sophia
Photo Source: Mütecevvil / Pexels

8 large round calligraphy plates hanging in the main place were written by Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi, one of the most famous calligraphers of the period, during the restoration of the Fossati brothers during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecit (1839-1861). These are the largest line plates in the world with a diameter of 7.5 meters. On these 8 plates, Allah, Hz. Muhammad, the four caliphs Hz. Abu Bakr, Mr. Omar, Mr. Osman and Hz. Ali, Hz. Hasan and Hz. Hussein’s names are written. Another detail you can notice is that the 35th verse of Surah Nur of the Holy Quran was written on the dome by Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi.

Library of Mahmud I

One of the most important traces left by the Ottomans on Hagia Sophia is the Library of Mahmud I. When you proceed to the southern part of Hagia Sophia, you will see the library in the main place, with a golden look and ornamented motifs. It was built by Mahmud I in 1739. On the door handle of the library, “Ya Fattah”, one of the 99 names of Allah, is written. Ya Fettah means “who opens the doors of goodness and sustenance to his servants” and “facilitates difficulties”. For this reason, it was seen that this expression was frequently used on door knockers in the Ottoman period.

shrines

Ottoman sultans wanted to reside in Hagia Sophia forever. The tombs located outside, just to the right of the entrance, are an indication of this. Sultan III. Selim Tomb, Sultan III. Murat Tomb, Sultan III. Mehmet Tomb, Sultan Mustafa I and Sultan İbrahim Tomb and Şehzadeler Tomb are located in this region.

To enter the area where the tombs are located, you can enter the Topkapı Palace from the left door on the road and visit it for free. If you want to enter the rooms where the tombs are located, you have to take off your shoes.

timetable

Muvakkithane is the place where muvakkits, who were the people who reported the prayer times by looking at the sun, determined the prayer time and time and did small-scale astronomy studies in the Ottoman Empire. The Muvakkithane of Hagia Sophia was also built by the Fossati brothers by Sultan Abdülmecit. There was a clock tower in the place of the Muvakkithane during the Byzantine period.

Primary School

The Sıbyan School, located outside, is one of the important structures left here by the Ottomans. The Sıbyan School is currently used as an exhibition hall. You can follow and participate in the activities of the Primary School building, which hosts various meetings and conferences.

Fountain

When you go out to the garden, you come across a very ornate fountain, which was built by Mahmud I in 1739. Consisting of eight marble columns, the fountain has 16 taps. In the place where the fountain was, there was a fountain during the Byzantine period. Before entering Hagia Sophia, believers used to wash their hands and faces in this fountain.

How to go to Hagia Sophia?

The easiest way to reach Hagia Sophia is by tram because there is a stop in front of it. By using the Bağcılar-Kabataş tram line, you can reach Hagia Sophia when you get off at the Sultanahmet stop, or you can get off at the Gülhane stop and walk a little more and explore the surrounding structures.

There is a ferry alternative for those coming from the opposite direction. When you take the Eminönü ferry from Kadıköy or Üsküdar, you are very close to your destination. You can move in the direction of Bağcılar by using the Bağcılar-Kabataş tram line from the tram stop in Eminönü as we mentioned above.

Marmaray is a very good alternative for those coming from the opposite side or those who want to shorten their way from the European side. When you get off at Sirkeci stop from Marmaray, you can use the tram line in the same way as above, or you can reach Hagia Sophia by taking a short walk from Sirkeci on the road following Gülhane.

If you are going with your own vehicle, you should know that the streets around the Blue Mosque are closed to traffic. You can choose the car park near Topkapi Palace or the surrounding car parks.

Eating and drinking

You will feel very hungry while visiting the historical peninsula. Don’t worry, we also have suggestions for places to eat:

restaurant 1741

If you are going to stay for dinner and are looking for a more fine dining concept, Lokanta 1741 on the terrace of Cağaloğlu Hamam, which is 5 minutes’ walk from Hagia Sophia, will be a great choice. He is the Best Restaurant winner from the 19th Time Out Food and Drink Awards. It is also one of the rare establishments where you can find alcohol in the Historic Peninsula. The tasting menu can be tried. There is an extensive wine menu. Cocktails are also good. There are modern variations of traditional Turkish cuisine in general on the menu. Website Address: Alemdar, Prof. Kazim Ismail Gurkan Cd. No: 34, 34110 Fatih Tel: 0533 145 17 41 Click for the location .

Simple Breakfast

Saade Breakfast is one of the city’s popular breakfast places where you can have breakfast against the view of the Blue Mosque. But you have to call the day before because they prepare accordingly. No breakfast on Monday and Tuesday. Prices are a bit expensive, but despite the price, everything is fresh and delicious, and the view is beautiful. Tea is unlimited. Address: Sultanahmet Mahallesi, Akbıyık Caddesi, No 90, Fatih, Istanbul Tel: 0533 335 04 45 Click for website and location .

Historical Sultanahmet Meatballs

A day in Sultanahmet would not be complete without ending at Sultanahmet Köftecisi. The real place of the famous Sultanahmet Meatballs has been Selim Usta’s place since 1920. This is the right address to eat piyaz with a portion of grilled meatballs. Every floor is full at all hours of the day. There are also queues in front of it. Let us remind you that credit card is not accepted here. Address: Alemdar Mahallesi Divan Yolu Caddesi No: 12 Tel: 02125200566 -02125136468 You can click for the website and location .

A’Ya Terrace Four Seasons Hotel

A’Ya Terrace, with the iconic backdrop of Hagia Sophia, the open-air section of the Four Seasons Hotel’s restaurant, A’Ya Terrace, is the ideal place to have a drink and a stylish dinner accompanied by the sunset. Be sure to make a reservation. Address: Cankurtaran, Tevkifhane Sk. no. 1, 34110 Fatih Tel: (0212) 402 30 00 Click for website and location .  

Seven Hills Restaurant

Seven Hills Restaurant is one of the touristic places of Sultanhamet. When you go up to its terrace, it has a unique view where you will take Hagia Sophia on one side and Sultanahmet on the other. It has a wide menu such as calamari, grilled and chard wraps. Before your Hagia Sophia tour, you can also choose a mixed breakfast on the terrace. Address: Cankurtaran, Tevkifhane Sk. No:8 Kat:3, 34122 Fatih Tel:  0534 522 37 93 Click for website and location .

Turkish Art Terrace Restaurant

Turk Art Terrace Restaurant, a restaurant where tourists come to both watch the view of Istanbul and experience Turkish cuisine, is an option with alcoholic or non-alcoholic menus. You can also choose to just take your coffee and sit on the terrace to watch Hagia Sophia from afar. Address: Cankurtaran, Tevkifhane Sk. No:12, 34122 Fatih Tel: 0 542 392 12 21 Click for website and location .

Matbah Restaurant

Matbah Restaurant is one of the most important representatives of Ottoman Palace Cuisine in Turkey. You can find the dishes served in Ottoman palaces in the menu of the restaurant, which is located in the Ottoman Hotels next to the Caferağa Madrasa, right next to Hagia Sophia. Address: Cankurtaran, Caferiye Sk. 6/1, 34400 Fatih Tel: +902125146151 Click for website and location .

Konyalı 1897

Konyalı is one of the first places that comes to mind when it comes to Ottoman cuisine. A business that carries years of experience to its menu and service. Since it is right next to Topkapi Palace, there is a wonderful view of Istanbul. Maybe not on a classic Sultanahmet trip, but if you have a guest from abroad, it would be a great gesture. Address: Sultanahmet Mahallesi Topkapi Palace, 34122 Fatih Tel: +902125139696 Click for website and location .

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